Coco Chanel
I’ve been talking to a friend who collects Coco Chanel artefacts. She has photographed some of her best pieces for us. Coco Chanel, who spent her childhood in an orphanage, continues to be possibly the most influential designer ever. She conjured up bobbed hair, trousers for women, contemporary chic, best-selling perfumes, and the most successful fashion brand of all time - but she also invented herself, fashioning the myth of her own life with the same dexterity as her couture. Justine Picardy, her biographer, explains that while Chanel was supreme innovator and vendor of all things elegant and beautiful, what lies beneath her own glossy myth is far darker. In her book, Coco Chanel, she aims to throw new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships
A key invention was the ‘little black dress’ (LBD). Until then black had been seen as a colour for servants. Rather a self-publicist she said, ‘I imposed black: it is still going strong today, for black wipes out everything else around.’
The black coat with tartan rim is an investment piece that cost more than £5,000 because it was worn by Tilda Swinton in The CHANEL Paris-Édinbourg Métiers d'Art 2012/13 show that took place on December 4th at Linlithgow Palace, Scotland. Amazing sound and spectacle in which Karl Lagerfield takes the photos: a homage to Scotland. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyowoW0OwtA
‘It’ bags like the Chanel Kelly bag, the Jumbo, Le sac å dos, and the Classic Double here have been a triumph for designers like Chanel because a bag does not have to fit anyone! So pure profit. They all have a special zipped compartment she designed to put her love letters in. Prices are by request but start over £2,000
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Shoes start at about £500. Dana has pictured some flat shoes with a 16 – 25 petal trademark Camelia that has become a symbol for Chanel. The camelia was introduced to replace the feathers that used to be used in decoration of clothes until the cruelty involved was exposed. The camelia is also found in the jewelry. The double C is iconic and the two brooches of a woman have Coco Chanel’s slightly bowed legs. At least she could laugh at herself.
It is difficult to overestimate the influence she has had on fashion. She leaves us some pithy advice. Simplicity was her theme and one memorable comment was, ‘Look at yourself in the mirror as you go out and take one thing off’. Her impact on design is summarized in another comment, “Fashion is architecture. It is a matter of proportions.”
She was very tall and slim herself and I am in no danger of buying her clothes as they are still only made up to size 12! But, indeed, the prices are not mad if you have the cash. I had not realised that the returns are 10% a year - better than gold as an investment. Cheapest at Heathrow airport shops, says my expert, if we ever fly again. But beware fakes that can be very convincing.
Justine Picardie
Harper Collins
Book Club no 1
1800 Tuesday August 4th
Let me know if you would like to social distance in my conservatory or come in on ZOOM…
Coco Chanel was an extraordinary woman by any one’s standards, but maybe not always likeable!
Here are the questions I have put together to frame our discussion.
How do you think Coco’s start in life at an Catholic orphanage in a convent affected her perception of herself?
Where can the convent influence be seen in the clothes she designed?
How many lovers did she have? Why did she not settle down?
Did she have a son?
What did you derive from her coded language and symbols?
Her lies were legendary. Does this impact on your respect for her? Can you give her personality a label?
What did you make of her war years? Where did her sympathies really lie?
Have you been conscious of the influence of Coco Chanel in your lifetime? What kind of impact does she continue to have on our lives today?
What will you take away from this biography about the meaning of style?
Should we all be spending our time reading something less frivolous?
Regards
Christina
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